2Independent-Travelers

This is the view of the mountain top Parador. Our room was near the back, overlooking the swimming pool and defense walls both surrounding and protecting. This 10^th century castle was strategically located in the upper part of town, like a typical fortress.

The next step, for me, was seeing the bedroom!

Exceptional! On the 4^th floor with a big balcony overlooking  the pool, mountains and valley.

Having flown in to Barcelona at 8:30am, we arrived at Tortosa in time for breakfast and after, a body- stretching walk around the fortress.

This is a Moorish burial site preserved from when they owned the castle in the 11/12th century. Notice the bony hand in the front left corner, third metal bar cuts it right in half… and nobody had an answer for it.

Just down the hill from this site, one can see how the city has grown around and up to the fortress its self…and not just for protection….these large, beautiful structures need many talented hands.

This is the front facing court yard. I had to take a narrow picture to reveal the centuries old defense system of bows and arrows and slots in the walls where they could be used!

A picture from our balcony looking over the pool (presently being cleaned….and, of course, it opened the day we left). Look carefully to the top of the mountains on the right. See the fuzzy white candles…from the ancient to the modern…they are windmills supplying energy to the surrounding towns.

We sat in this alcove eating our dinner that first night. Above was one of the four Catalan Gothic windows preserving the Moorish elements in the castle walls. The interior denotes the passing of time with the Christian regal character prevailing.

The next day we were up and, “walking” the town- which meant going up and going down- a lot…

The cathedral of Santa Maria of Tortosa is located in the space in which the Roman forum was traditionally placed.

In 1347 the building work of the Gothic catherdral started and it went on until the middle of the 18th century. It was built attached to the cloister, which dates from the 13th century. We started the tour in the ribbed underground vaults. Interestingly enough, we found out that the organization wasn’t allowed to charge us to visit the cathedral so they did charge us a nominal fee to go through the dungeon basement first. The cathedral was overwhelming, started in the 12th century and pretty much finished in the 13th. We hunted for a Jewish Synagogue in the old town and did happen upon a very old and frail looking building that may have been one, but now is just basically falling down.

We had to end up in the town of Girona in order to find a small section of a remaining wall and archway of a synagogue….. I had to remember that in 1492 both the Moors and the Jews were thrown out of Spain. And consequently much of the  culture was destroyed. Sad.

This was a fantastic trip and the enlightenment of visiting another world was wonderful! But it’s nighttime now and it’s off to bed… and thank God that we do have an elevator. Sweet Tortosa.

A lovely 12^th century medieval castle build on Roman settlements of the 11^th century. It was primarily used as the residents of the Bishops and Cardinals until the end of the last century.

This Parador courtyard was added to the original building. During the time of the Bishops and Cardinals living here they needed areas where they could say their daily prayers and contemplate outside of the confines of their small rooms.

These are very old original defense wall, probably from the 11^th-12^th century. I would be interested to find out if any visitors had a proclivity to “rock-climb”.

Dinning areas are always beautiful and comfortable. The original walls and ceilings did not have glass windows of course- but the Bishops and Cardinals had a good deal of money for their refurbishing.

This staircase, the old and new sections, the walls, archways and the floors are original. But as time moved forward the glass doors and the windows were added.

I imagine that these, “guards at the door” started very early on for the reception of food and other necessities and when the wars came along, they were there for the fighting and protection.

This parador was the Bishop’s sea for 8 centuries.  They brought in a lot of money for the town and the church. This cathedral was in walking distance from the parador down to the town’s plaza Mayor Central.

We have not been here yet but after learning all this history, it will not be over looked!

Malaga became a thriving port. First came the Phoenicians followed the Romans and later by the Moors. Then in the 19th century the sweet Malaga wine became one of Europe’s most popular drinks… Until Phylloxera ravaged the vineyards in 1876.

“Hotel Gibralfaro” Is a parador with beautiful accommodations. This top floor swimming pool offers a beautiful view of the Mediterranean and the portside facility.

We walked down the footpath between our parador and the remodeling of an ancient building- no sign- to view the busy portside- But then it began to rain and we ran back up the hill to the bar.

This lovely bar was a bit crowded because of the rain and the tourists mobbing in to get a drink and get dry.

It also was a lighter eating habitat compared to the major dining room and slightly better food and quieter.

The dining room was larger than this but it was the only picture I could find.

You can’t quite see this view of Malaga Costa-Del-Sol from the hotel, but it’s not far away and if the weather’s good you might thoroughly enjoy it.

Unless you hate hot beaches and lots of noise, body traffic and some other traffic!

“But and exquisite area”

“Malaga Gibralfaro” the front of the hotel, invites patrons to relax after eating or imbibing to sit and enjoy the view, which- we did.

We crossed the French Pyrenees into Spain, planning to head for “Santiago de Compestela” but saw a sign for Parador de Olite,  and, since it was late afternoon, headed for the Parador.

This was the first time we had seen both a parador and castle united in  sharing  buildings! Driving around the complex, we came to a lovely garden area and a sign “Parador”.

Most of the rooms  and common areas of this 15^th C structure are found in the wing of this majestic Palace/castle. This was the favorite  home of the Kings of Navarra in the 11^th through 15^th C, and still retains the seat of power. The church was straight ahead behind the three blue towers on the right. Because of the various sundry wars was mostly dismantled. The floor part was left and you could walk around the front, which is almost dead-ahead and overlook the city.

The living room area was part of an interior courtyard…with a glass ceiling  that could be opened or closed.  The adjacent  dining/breakfast area was also glass ceilinged but with the music of tinkling fountains and beautifully potted plants.

On the other side of the living room was a curved stone stair way that led to a small music filled bar….where we happily partook of the wine!

This main street was added to the castle complex and grew as it did.  The various kings, families, retainers and  armies  expanded and so did the city. Agriculture production expanded particularly with fruits and vegetables  and naturally, wine making.  This street is lined with apartments, small houses, restaurants, shops, one other hotel…where we ate dinner one night…and a Church.

Our rather austere but lovely bedroom.  The large arched balcony had moveable glass windows, which we appreciated when it started to rain…and after when the bugs started flying. We had an excellent distant view over the fields to the Pyrenees Mountains. The other direction revealed  cracked and crumbled stone walls from one of their battles…a great view even though it was from our bathroom window.

A beautiful sight as we drove away down the main street and off to a nearby winery.

We had hoped to walk a part of the Pilgrimage…..but it’s hot and it’s long…another time.

This is a picture of the Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is the medieval pilgrimage route across Spain.

It is a new huge network of varying routes across Europe that end in Santiago, where the bones of Saint James (Spain’s Patron Saint) lie. More information is to be had on this computer! (originally it started with one’s getting awards in Heaven for the journey… I’m not so sure now.)

A prelude to the Parador: On our second visit to Spain (years ago), our hotel   receptionist  suggested  that she  reserve our next  night at our chosen Parador Cordova.  This would give us more time to visit Montserrat. We did.

The drive up to “Monastir de Montserrat ”  was a precipitous  and undulating  roadway  (improved now).

These rock mountains had a majestic beauty of their own!

Over 4,000 feet high,  this was Catalonia’s  holiest place. Surrounded  by chapels,  hermits caves  and centered  by the monastery,  it was founded in the 11^th century.  As we walked into the Basiica, the Monks were singing  the “Salve  Regina”….. beautiful….

Now,  on to our Parador.

There are many wonderful hotels in Spain…..those that appeal the most  are the” Paradors”  where you can see and feel  the history therein.

The Government  opened the first in 1928…..beginning with empty castles and monasteries.  My second reason  is that the restaurants showcase the reginal  cuisine and wine.

And, for those 40 plus years ,  or older,  there are discounts  that deepen as you age!

Cardona, with the mountains behind and the village below,  is self contained.  A lovely  bar and a formal restaurant  are across the fortified  9^th Century  enclosure   which includes   11^th Century Church.

The  original building was from the 12^th Century  hence the city in front is modern….houses needed for farmers, workers in the prosperous salt mines  and vendors of other trades and industries.

A beautiful  entrance to an old castle.  Actually  was originally built for horses and carriages.

Mountain areas tend to have bad weather…and what to do when you can’t go outside???

Head for the bar!

And if the bar is too noisy,  head for the sitting room…

Now we get to the bottom of Cordona’s success and  longevity.

Photo by Etan J. Tal

This Rock Salt Mine is behind  the Parador and we  would not have  noticed it if our bedroom  had faced  another direction. Very steep from  centuries  of digging.

If you need some exercise,  ask the Concierge for a map to do some climbing…and update your  insurance.

When checking out the Concierge  congratulated me on my recent birthday as he extended my passport.  “Congratulations” he said, “you’ve reached the age of discounts  —-25% off everything.”

A serendipitous surprise!!