All the tickets and reservation times seemed to gel together
and our neighbor Jane, is driving us to out new airport terminal. Our flight to
Miami, Florida was over four flights using some home miles to ease into first
class seats- but not first class wines…
Mike questioned the stewardess about this (poor wines) and
she said, “Good ones are only used on international flights.” We arrives at 3 AM at our favorite hotel, The
Grand Palms resort, where we’d be staying for the week.
Breakfast at 10:00 AM and was complimentary, Mike and I
managed to arrive 5 minutes before the deadline. And they smiled at the tip and
We decided to take a walk on the golf course right in front
of us and we were really lucky only one ball came near us.
Need for more exercise so we headed for Hollywood Beach on the Atlantic Sea. We drove through the recent high rises and tried to figure our which one was out president hang-out, not to throw stones but maybe something…
After we bypassed the high rises we found parking lots galore, minimal of which charged $40 bucks! Mike having been there as a youth knew where some of the secret spots were and found us an empty and open space for free.
When we got out of the car and headed for the beach I was traumatized
by the beauty of it.
We walked along until we saw a couple exit their table and
we almost ran for it. No fights. The further you look out on the Atlantic the deeper
the color becomes.
Later on the afternoon we went to visit Mike’s brother, Chuck
and wife Marlene and daughter Toon. Chuck had reserved a Cuban restaurant for
Arriving on time, we were taken by the concierge to a small dark
corner room. “Wait!” I said “There are several oval tables near the front that
are vacant.” “Oh, those are reserved for parties of 4.” The concierge responded.
And I turned around and counted, “We’re a party of four…” He looked stunned for
a moment and looked us over and said, “Please follow me”. It was that best meal
and best table I’ve had in a long time.
The next day we dined with Syl- Mike’s oldest sister. They
frequently called and kept each other apprised of the information about the family
members. It was a lovely meal but otherwise jammed packed with kids who loved
The following night was a meeting of available family members
at, “The Big Fat Greek Restaurant.”
Left front row to
right: Mike, Caroline, nephew Jeff with wife behind him Laura. Niece Beth and
Beth’s husband Michael and Mike’s sister Sylda in between.
Good food- crowded- lots of families. And charming was the
water way to the side of the building filled with screaming kids… along with
their parents at the sight the sight of the Manatees.
We took a cab from the airport to our Copenhagen Plaza Hotel and checked in. Stepping out on our 4th floor balcony I was delighted to see the main train station on our right and directly across the street was the Tivioli, one of the most beautiful amusement parks in Europe. Timing was everything! Suddenly, what looked to be a giant umbrella arose from behind the park wall and opening gracefully began to climb. It slowly spiraled around swirling out the tethered chairs attached beneath. The sounds of scared laughter rose with it until the flying seats were parallel to the park ground 5 floors below. I was reentering our room when the shouting lessened and the umbrella began to close, descending to earth.
A train came noisily into the station and distracted me from this wild ride that both fascinated and terrified me.
The weather was bits and pieces of chill with a few drops of rain but we needed exercise after a very long flight from San Francisco. We headed out on the pedestrian zone to do a walkabout. Because the cobbled-stone streets can be slippery when wet, we crowded in with the others sharing the narrow sidewalks. We spotted a “Plank Steak House” serving spare ribs and caught a couple of seats next to the fireplace. Excellent meal. Back to the hotel and the balcony to watch the fascinating Freefall again. The umbrella was rising and the vocal whoopla was beginning……but this time there was one voice that screamed in panic. As it crescendoed into piercing shrieks, the Freefall’s ascent slowed and then stopped. Then it began to lower. When it reached the ground, it was quiet.
A few minutes later it rose again trailed by the normal yells of delight and fear.
Now I felt really comfortable with this wild and scary ride.
The next day we walked through the park entrance….and the area was so large that without the map we would have been lost. Rides, restaurants, gardens, shops, ponds…it was wonderful, and vital. We spent hours. This is a city and country that we plan to revisit.
The culmination of our parador trip ended (May, 20th 2017) in the principality of Andorra as we crossed the French Alps.
The population of this whole country is 80,000 although not seen in this picture. Then as we drove through this breath taking beauty we arrived at an entrance way to the City.
Shortly thereafter we stopped for an overview for as much of the country as we could see, what with the Alps all hanging around.
This country became independent in 1993 and had its first democratic elections. This country became independent in 1993 and had its first democratic elections. Before that time it was the autonomous state of both the French and the Spanish since 1278.
For many years now Andorra has been the tax free paradise for shoppers and changed from the Peseta to the Euro in 2002.
As fascinating as the country is- we were on our way to a wine tasting area near by- and what a trip that was.
This was the overview of our room, looking up, down, and around at the magnificent Pyrenees. With all the tree coverage and homes we wondered where the Devil the wine growing was going on???
Although this Patio is not overwhelming, it made up for it as night with the sound of the river cascading down the hill side behind it… and lulled us to sleep.
The next morning the hotel owner and vintner told us that we would be going up to his winery driven by his second in command.
It started off basically at ground level and transitioned immediately to steep curves, and suicide curves, every time we went around a corner I almost fell off the back of the truck. But the driver just kept laughing and said, “It gets better.” “Better than dying?!” I asked.
When we stopped at the top my legs had to quit jittering before I could get out of the truck. But the magic words, “Come, let’s taste this wine.” Looking around and down, and down, and down. God knows how they grew grapes on this magnificent mountain.
These giant distillers were shiney, modern, and clean— and loaded with wine. We drank, smiled and drank some more. I asked out driver how we would get down, would we be going down the same way as we went up? I’d rather walk… He laughed and said, No, we have an easier way down. And I asked why he didn’t do the easier way up? He responded, “More fun this way.” Mike chimmed in, “Yeah, but I need another drink before I get on any winding road again.”
May 12 After leaving Armenia and Georgia, we flew into Paris, grabbed our luggage and hopped the Eurostar to London.
A 2 hour ride through the outskirts of Paris, beautiful farmland and with only 15 minutes under the English Channel. (I was happy the time under water was so short!) A cab to Novotel Blackfriers Hotel and smoothly checking in…until she said it would be $ 30:00 each for breakfast. I whipped out my e-mail confirmation with “breakfast included”. She said “but the rules have changed” and I said “but my e-mail hasn’t.” She went away and returned, all smiles, “we will honor your reservation.”
We had a 12th floor executive level room with balcony.
Very nice view. The view straight out was of the Shard Building by Renzo Piano and the tallest building in Europe. Unobtrusive during the daytime and lit with soft colors at night. If you look to the left, a new high-rise blocks the view of Blackfriars Bridge and the river.
Our breakfast buffet was excellent. While we ate we watched out the window as people from the underground hurried to work. All wore black…and it seemed unusual for a mild May day. Never did find out why.
This is a picture of our “extended family”.
Kate and Tom DeBrabander-Van Dessel from Antwerp and their 16 and 6 year old sons who visited us in California last summer. Kate was our exchange student for a year—26 years ago—and continued to be family ever since. Now they had arranged to take turns flying from-and-to Antwerp (takes about an hour) so one of them would be home for the kids at night. Tom came first. We had a glass of wine on our balcony and planned our walking strategy.
The South Bank walk was crowded and vibrant. We ate lunch at Gabriel’s Wharf in a small, Greek restaurant continuing our “catch-up” conversation. On our walk to the London Eye, parallel to the river boats and the crowds beside the water , we approached a mob of people waiting to board the Eye.
This symbol of modern Britain was exquisite ….and huge! It is easy to step on, takes 45 minutes to do the circuit and from the top (on a clear day) one can see Windsor Castle 25 miles away.
We continued on but were forced to stop in front of the Park Plaza Hotel.
A glass atrium soared from the bottom to the top of the building. (And what would one see from the other side?) Up the elevator to the top and the picture shows the view. Later we ate dinner at an excellent Indian restaurant.
The next morning Kate arrived and they joined us for breakfast in our hotel. We entered the restaurant at 9:50 (serving stopped at 10) but our lovely hostess winked and said “on us”. Lovely.
Our strategy: walk across the Millennium Bridge and see St. Paul’s Cathedral.
Sun shining, we crossed this elegant pedestrian bridge, looking every which way to absorb the monumental views. It led us to our next stop: St. Paul’s Cathedral.
In 1942, St. Paul’s was one of the major surviving structures of WWII during the London blitz. (Notice the blown out windows and walls of the buildings in front.) Christopher Wren was the architect in 1660 after the great London fire.
The Cathedral body was so well designed that little re-structuring was needed. Beautiful on the outside and magnificent on the inside.
On the left side of the Cathedral was a coffee house with a covered patio. It began to drizzle so we snagged a table by a fireplace, ordered coffees and reminisced until the sun returned.
Next stop The Temple.
The rounded section on the left side was the original Templar World Headquarters established in the 12th century and lasted until they were “eliminated” in 1312 by the French king and the pope. (And after all the murder and mayhem of the Templars, the king and the pope never did find TREASURES)
Marble effigies of some 12th century Templars are located here. Originally the Inner Temple housed the Queen’s “Council”. Now they contain law offices and law students-in-training. This is consistent with the Medieval Knights Templar “protecting” pilgrims to the Holy Land.
We found a typical English Pub in an alley behind the Temple where we ate lunch and said farewell to Tom, leaving to fly home. His sharp wit will be sorely missed! (But we have Band-Aids.)
Straggling back to our hotel, we decided on dinner at the Swan, next door to the Globe Theater.
Crowded but we got a 2nd floor window table with this great view. (Of course the view became much more beautiful after two glasses of wine.)
The next morning, Kate, Mike and I walked across the Westminster Bridge to the Houses of Parliament.
Known world wide for its beauty, the Westminster Abby has been here since the 11th century. Much of it was destroyed by the 1834 fire and rebuilt. We went to the public entrance but “not open till 2:30”. So, we walked on to St. James Park for coffee….and, as usual, we talked about the trials and tribulations of life. Since we first met Kate at 17, and Tom a few years later, and their families …..our continued involvement with them opened our eyes and our world.
A large gathering of “peaceful protesters” gathered in the park waving signs about Reduced wages, and began to sing. (just like home!)
Leaving I the looked toward Buckingham Palace and saw the Changing of the Guards. Since Kate had to fly to Antwerp around 5, we headed to our hotel bar for a “farewell till we meet again” toast.
Later Mike and I crossed the street to a 1930’s Prince William Henry Pub for a beer and true “pub grub”.
The next morning we were traveling on to Bournemouth-on-the-Channel.
Major holiday traveling is a headache. We tried to beat the system by flying in and out of Portland during off-season and choosing a centrally located hotel to limit driving and crowds.
I found Hotel Rose, along the Willamette River, facing the park, ideally located for our small family of five. Walking shoes important, cars not.
Because Mike and I arrived a day earlier, I was able to renegotiate our “reserved” rooms to lovely adjoining rooms for our daughter, her husband, our 10 year old granddaughter and us. The views from the balcony included the park and river. They arrived at 4 and we decided to walk River Park and choose a restaurant for later.
A beautiful walk paralleling the Willamette River, busy with strollers, joggers, bikers and geese. Beautiful , relatively friendly and fat geese. According to natives, they come every fall to fatten up for the “long haul”.
Of course much of it they unload on the lawn! And here, nobody walks on the grass. We found a lovely riverside restaurant for dinner: McCormick & Schmick. We came later and sat outside under trees with sparkling lights. It was quiet and cool while inside the restaurant was a zoo.
Mike had done some research so after a great hotel breakfast (unusual), we took off for Old China Town.
When we were touring “Lan Su Chinese Garden”, a Chinese artist, exhibiting his work, was painting names in Chinese script. I cannot describe the way he…. painted but it was fantastic. Edie was enthusiastic about seeing her own name in a vibrant and artistic Chinese style ……and so were we.
Afterward Mike, Edie and I walked through the old town, impressed by the 18th and 19th century buildings and how many had been rehabbed for businesses.
Steve and Bronwyn got loaner bikes from our hotel and went riding. Portland has many “pedestrian only” streets that include bikers.
Later Edie and I set off for a round of shopping. I gave her a “cap” for purchases and she stopped 20 dollars short of the limit. “That’s all I need Grandma” she said. (I love this kid!)
We joined Mike, Steve and Bronwyn for coffee and Steve took this picture.
At a Lebanese restaurant that eve I had roast goat and Mike had lamb stew. Besides the excellent food, and best of all, we had a great convivial conversation. Even Edie, who had pulled out some of her drawings to work on and escape some boring adult conversation, contributed to ideas being expressed. She is growing up to be a very lovely and self-contained young girl.
The next morning we were all off to the Portland Saturday Craft Market.
It was inspiring. All the tents were operated by the craftsman or woman and was an amazing collection of talented work. Every time I inspected an object, the craft person was there to explain it and give background. I could have spent much more time….and money there.
Edie, Mike and I went back to lunch in our hotel and watched base ball afterward. Bronwyn and Steve went running.
We planned a celebratory dinner at Momma’s Italian.
We raised our wine (beer for Steve) glasses for the wonderful food and each other. It had been a splendid weekend.
When we got back to our hotel, Steve got the concierge to take the following picture ofour small, immediate family.
Domme is an almost perfect bastide: a walled village sitting on a hillside.
(credits: by Luc Viatour, August 30, 2012)
The Bastides: the birth of French Democracy
Between 1220 and 1372 about 700 bastides, also referred to as new towns, were built to colonize the wild and fertile lands of Southwest France. They grew as small, self-sufficient hamlets which eventually had to become fortified for protection. The following picture is the oldest and simplest that we saw: bastide Couvertoirade.
Compare that one to a more successful bastide of Eymet.
These bastides enabled the rulers and those wealthy enough to own land to centrally locate their population, protect them, and to make money by raising taxes on their production. BUT, most importantly, it converted the serfs into freemen! Hence the birth of Democracy in France from the 13th century.
As the bastides grew in popularity and goods, they needed stronger walls and banding together inside them. Many were built on minimally established sites or on trading routes and were open to passersby and local farmers.
They were planned to put some order into society….and did just that.
The bastides all had a central square lined with arcades that acted as a commercial hub and market. As you can see in the first picture, the arcades were rough hewn, but, for the 12th and 13th century, they were magnificent. The buildings themselves were 2 rooms deep: the first room the store, the second living quarters and the arcade for the display of wares.
This is the square in Villereal. Since churches were not allowed on the square but were to be, in addition to the religious center, the Keep and fall-back in case of a serious attack. The façade is built as a fortress topped with large open areas where weapons and hot oil could be dispersed. Standing in front we could see the stanchion openings where the chains would either raise or lower the ramp to cover the moat….now filled with stones.
Although Villereal started in the 12th century, it must have done very well to support the family that built this castle in the 15th century.
Although noting the solid wall around the castle, the marauding continued. Before we began this journey, we decided to locate near Bergerac, both for the wineries and the bastides. The beautiful Chateau Des Vigiers in Monestier, France was our residence for 5 days.
The ideal situation: the Chateau has 2 restaurants, 2 bars and is located on A hill-top with woods and a golf course. Busy days and lovely evenings.
The next morning we drove to Montpazier.
Notice how much bigger and more elaborate the following site is. Reason: in the 12th century the King of England married Eleanor of Aquitaine. And they established this village….in spite of the problems between the French and English. This next picture shows more of the royal grandeur in the elegant town-houses.
Notice some of the 2nd floor windows. We had lunch straight across the plaza under an umbrella and watched mini-vans plus horse drawn carts bring produce and wine.
On our way back we stopped at this formal bastide, fully self-contained. The Chateau was built in the 16th century and owned by the same family for over 600 years. The Chateau had a deep moat surrounding it. We also found a trap door for emergency escape in the basement….swimming out through the moat would be fine…except for the alligators.
One look at those lush vineyards reveals the success of this estate. We made sure of it by sampling in the tasting room. We stopped at the Lalinde bastide that was located right on the Dordogne River on our way to the hotel.
It was well protected by the strong currents. The water levels could vary by as much as 50 feet and it was very swift at any level. We headed back to our Chateau to celebrate with a marvelous dinner and a clink of glasses for this wonderful discovery of the Bastides!
The final chapter, number three. First I had to encourage Mike not to stop at every damn winery. (But later, more forcefully threatening death or dismemberment…) We stopped to see the Kolassi castle, the 14th century headquarters of Saint John and the Templars. Shortly after that the Templars were killed- but the why is the more important and lengthy than I can write about here.
They city of
Lemsos shows what the typical attraction for foreign visitors is- but we moved
further up the coast where it was a bit quitter.
This was the
only picture that my dying camera could take. Our room on the 4th
floor of the Capital Coast hotel had a wonderful view of the water. Even
catching a very tiny, (if you have good eyes) boat in the distance. What I couldn’t
catch was all three swimming pools in the picture.
draw-backs: the air conditioner in the room didn’t work- but it did 10 minutes
after the janitor showed up. We ask the front desk for bedside reading lights…
We never got them… older people tend to read more often than watch TV when
people pound on the door to turn down the sound.
across the main street, was marvelous. The owner and Mike got into a wine
discussion about the Cypriot wines we were drinking. Mutual interest often
starts a friendship.
following paragraphs, written by husband, gives a bit more background to the
country as a whole. There will be a taste of the wine further along- but no
Cyprus is a
small island–roughly 3500 sq. miles, making it larger than Delaware but
smaller than Connecticut,–in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. It lies 60
miles west of the Syrian coast and miles south of Turkey’s southern
shores. Athens is over 500 miles to the northwest.
strategic position in the Mediterranean, the island has over the centuries seen
many players and occupiers: the Phoenicians, the Hellenistic dynasty of
Alexander the Great and the Romans. The Byzantines had their short
stay in the 10th century. And, of course, there were the
Crusaders (11th century).
Lionheart captured the island then turned it over to the Knights Templar
who in turn sold it to the French noble family of the Lusignans (a 300 year
the Genovese and Venetians. The Ottomans had a 300 year hold
before Britain took administrative rights to Cyprus in 1878. This
hold lasted until 1960 when Cyprus established independence. However, animosity
between the Greek Cypriots and the Turkish Cypriots soon surfaced and in
1974 the Turkish government sent troops to Cyprus to put down a coup
d’état–a coup that was encouraged by Athens.
time the island has been partitioned into the ethnically Greek south Republic
of Cyprus and the northern Turkish Republic of North Cyprus
(recognized only by Turkey). A “Green Zone” buffer border
separates the two–a 112 mile border with only 5 vehicular crossing
points plus two more pedestrian crossings in the walled city of Nicosia,
the capital of both “counties”. One island, two cultures, two
languages, two currencies (Euros, south/ Turkish Lira, north). After over
40 years the island is still resolutely divided!
we drove from Pafos and over the mountain to the North Coast of Cyprus.
at an empty border patrol station, waited a bit- and then figured they had gone
to lunch and then headed on.
A few miles
later a large motorcycle pulled alongside us. We stopped an explained our side
of the story: there were no bars or people around to stop us at the checkpoint.
He laughed and said they were eating lunch on the other side of the road. But
you’ll have to pay a $25 dollars fine before flying home. “Not a problem” said
Mike and thanked him.
A few miles
later, (see the last 5 lines of Mike’s writing giving special details of the border
was on the fourth floor and not only overlooked the Mediterranean Sea, but had
two balconies- an especially good feature when you are traveling and have
laundry that needs to be washed and dried.
off expecting and found the Kyrenia Castle, and loved it.
right on the sea and has existed since the 10th century BC. Excavations have
revealed Greek traces that date back to the 7th century BC, but the site was
developed into a city under Roman rule. The castle endured several sieges but
is still standing today.
the whole place in 100 degree weather- slightly cooler inside but not much!
enthusiastic from the sight and said, “That’s where we’re going to eat dinner
tonight.” And I was delighted because the temperature was falling.
We ate under
the white awnings in the harbor above. Once seated on the portside there were
four youths who sat at the table next to us. They were very friendly and had
just taken the fairy over from Turkey.
They asked, “If
you don’t mind we’d like to practice out English with you.”
jokingly, “We only speak Californian English.” and we then enjoyed our dinner
conversing with these young people. Mike left them with half a bottle of wine
and they were delighted.
The next day
we decided to walk around the town where we were staying. Being in a hotel
right on the Mediterranean Sea with an air-conditioned restaurant is dying and
going to Heaven!
made a reservation for a sea-side table- which was great except for a strong
storm came that night and large waves crashed against the canvass opening and
splashed us! And I saw fish! And Mike said, “I don’t, catch yours.”
Our next big ticket stop was the Hiliarion Castle on the mountain top of the ridge behind us.
We parked in the lot below the Hiliarion Castle. I got out and had a drink while Mike hiked up to tour the castle. The heat and the steep- Mike went slogging up the mountain- temperature unknown but high. While I sat in an air-conditioned café below and had a glass of wine.
Mike made a wonderful sketch of the Castle as a birthday present.
left a lot out, they’re still fighting but so are we! But we enjoyed this
country enormously. Thanks Cyprus!
this is. There will be a prize for the winner!
The history of both Armenia and Georgia begins with Noah’s Ark, pictured here, which to all accounts landed on Mount Ararat. Both countries metaphorically share this mountain and it can be said that their histories go back to the beginning of time.
Georgians claim descent from “Kortholts” and Armenians claim their ancestry from his brother “Haik”, both great grandsons of Noah and his Ark. Georgia became the world’s 2nd Christian country preceded only by Armenia. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, both countries were left with massive environmental problems …especially inheriting oil polluting from heavy metals, erosion from uncontrolled logging and over-grazing….among others.
The following mill has disintegrated over about 20 years after their leaving Georgia.
And this is a good example of all of their buildings.
Both Armenia and Georgia reversed this situation and are now entering world trade because of their excellent organic food products and wine development. Our guide said “We couldn’t afford the pesticides needed for crops or money for new equipment……so organic farming and wine production was our only choice. And now it’s paying off.”
Driving into Tbilisi, Georgia, we quickly discovered one of their city’s idiosyncrasies: any alley is considered a 2-way street. The direction is determined wholly by who gets half way first. Since the front of our rental had been damaged coming cross-county.
(the white stuff on the ground is our front bumper ….smashed by two teenagers
backing into us…..and then poorly reattached),
I do believe oncoming drivers felt we had nothing to lose….and that worked!
We found Hotel Kapola, an original converted mansion and checked into our Suite #12.
They had overbooked. I had reserved a 4 day stay 3 months earlier, and since no-one wanted to pay the price of the suite….we got it by default!
And it was magnificent. The large balcony overlooked the hillside, the river and the mountain. That night we ate at our roof top restaurant, overlooking the same view.
Lovely music coming from a small band playing In the bar. The only problem was the waiter. Mike ordered a bottle of white wine, the waiter bought red….already uncorked and poured it without “presenting” it to Mike first. The situation was immediately solved by the manager. The waiter was a bit hostile to Mike afterward….but he had no idea how easily he got off!
The next morning we met our local guide, Lila. For brevity’s sake I will reflect on a few sites, although all were marvelous.
The most impressive was Saint Nicolas Church (4th century) surrounded by the remaining fortress walls sitting on the hill top. The city is growing up to the ancient Citadel and has just opened a tram running from down town up to it. Our energetic tour guide felt we would enjoy walking up the historic pathway to the Citadel…….but we compromised: took a cab up and walked down.
We saw the new tramway begin operations the day before we left Tbilisi. Afterward we walked through the Old Town Pedestrian restaurant street. While we ate, Lila, early 50’s, gave some insight on family life both before and after the Soviet Collapse. “First”, she said, “they got rid of all the intellectuals either by transferring them to ‘work farms’ or deporting them to Siberia. Then assigning jobs to all, regardless of experience, and paying minimum wage. Minimum housing….4 families to ONE flat. All worked until too old or too feeble, and then received bare subsistence pay.
I had to move away to get an education and returned afterward as an educator at the University.” She said the older generation got used to this life, accepted it as normal and were lost, at first, when the Soviets left. This is what happened to her own family.
View of the 6,000 year old monastery that will begin the sequel.
The beginning of our drive to the Oslo Festival was not auspicious. The weather was drizzly and cold. We needed to pass through 3 tunnels, catch a 20 minute ferry ride and drive up a snowy mountain.
This is a big country and that small, yellow building IS the ferry station.
Little did we know that the highway had been closed due to heavy snow. Even if there had been signs, we, couldn’t have read them anyway.
After an hour of driving up through the snow, the sun came out and we realized that there was no one else on the road…The snowy berms reached 7 plus feet…..I know because I trailed my fingers through them. Lovely sunshine right down to Oslo.
Our first stop was at the Viking Museum just outside the city. There were ancient ships from the 9th c. AD entirely excavated from burial sites. These were wealthy or powerful people wanting their ship and contents for the next world. One was so enormous that we had to climb to a balcony to see the inside.
This spectacular craft was 90 feet long and 15 feet wide. Its burial chamber contained the body of a man in his 40’s. Besides the usual accouterments of guilded bronze, kitchen utensils, beds etc. it also had the bones of 12 horses, 6 dogs and a peacock. He was very special!
On into the city busy with preparations for the combined celebration of Constitution Day and the revered 1800th century King Karl Johan Day. We drove to the town center Scandia Hotel but they were fully booked. The gracious Concierge reserved us a room at the portside Scandia KNA Hotel having a lovely view of the Fjord from our balcony.
The mountain beyond was lit up with fairy lights after dark.
Mike had navigated our way through many dead-end streets and the holiday confusion down town with his uncanny sense of direction and 3 maps.
Our hotel was close to the portside and offered many restaurant choices. Some of the older buildings had been modernized with glass overviews taking full advantage of the bay. The area was very pedestrian friendly with cobbled-stone walkways and occasional fountain centered plazas.
Music from the hotel and the surrounding area woke us. Oslo’s biggest holiday of the year was starting early and with great enthusiasm. After breakfast we walked to the park to observe the festivities. Individuals and entire families were wearing their regional costumes, some of which (we found out later) dated from the 1800’s and had not changed in color or style.
Families, youth groups and young adults marched from Johan’s Gate, the main street, passing the Palace with the King and Queen waving. They continued parading and singing through the park and down to the Port. There were many bands, school groups and military units; all singing and cheering with gusto. Many 3 generational families were dressed in regional costumes. The townspeople knew each other by their regional colors.
Most women wore long dresses with fantastic embroidery at the waist and hem. Their families were also color-coordinated, including hats. It was a very social event. Around 5 o’clock we saw groups dispersing to the train station and others evacuating the car parks.
The younger adults stayed on, having gotten into the beer early, and having a wonderful time. We were impressed to see the more sober ones assisting those who became inebriated. Around 7, looking for dinner, we walked toward Karl Johan’s Gate and found it a bit littered with celebratory trash and most of the restaurants had run out of food. We headed back to the wharf area and picked a restaurant over looking the bay. Many milling young people were having a jovial time, and, consequently, so were we.
Oslo, and all of Norway, has much more to offer!
Akershus castle has defended Oslo since 13th century and will do so for a long time to come.
Essentially wending our way back to Istanbul, we headed to Assos and
the Caravansy Hotel by the sea. Our concierge graciously booked 2 days
at this wonderful rustic resort that looked over the bay and up a hill
to a castle. We had a good view of the acropolis in Pergamon as we
passed, but we didn’t stop. The ride down the hills to Assos was long
and hazardous but we made it and checked into our third floor
Only eight rooms had a view-with-balcony, which had a heavy overhang to keep out the weather and resembled a small watch-tower.
Walking the waterfront and the tiny village only took 30 minutes. Off
to the. Pool…freezing.. .ha! The 7:30 seating for dinner offered
minimal choices: fish or chicken. The food was good and the service
excellent. Then the rains came down and we got to watch passing ships
from our watch-tower.
Breakfast overlooking the bay, with some clouds and choppy waves. We
tried walking up the hill to the village above but only got as far as
the crumbling but majestic amphitheater when it started to drizzle. The
rain actually enhanced the appearance of this ancient structure but not
the quality of the dirt road returning to the hotel. We had to step off
the road when cars passed. The second time this happened we heard some
noise from a fruit orchard and there was a herd of goats, chewing
quietly, staring at us. I whispered and they cocked their heads, moving
closer, paralleling us along the fence fearlessly. Being unused to goats
on the other side of a shabby fence, we walked quietly until the road
shifted away. Then, bravely, we looked back and missed their curiosity.
Watching them chew made me hungry. Nearing our hotel, we stopped at
Gazleme, a small restaurant with grape vines covering the overhead
lattice work that kept us dry. Lovely lamb stew. Our hotel was filled
with Turks. The only English spoken was by one receptionist. Our Turkish
was meager but people were very hospitable.
Taking a ferry boat to “wine island” today. The approaching pier of
this old fortress, “Bozcaada Castle” loomed over us. The castle was
built originally in the 8th century on Roman ruins and classic Roman
design. It towered over the bay guarding the Dardinelles.
After lunch we found the winery but alas, no tasting, only selling.
Then we ferried back to Asia and drove to Canakkale, got another ferry
to Europe and drove to Gelibolu (The Greek Gallipolis is better
remembered as the site of a major battle in the 1st World War).
While crossing the Dardenelles, I noticed the many crumbling fortresses lining this most strategic body of water. More than 5 countries used the Straits to get to the Mediterranean, a vitally important access to commerce. From the looks of the many fortresses, it was not easy. We found Hotel Owa in the non-tourist town of Gelibolu and got a lovely large room. Our balcony overlooked the downtown and a very busy harbor. Our concierge recommended Ilham Restaurant for fresh seafood. We ate on the outside deck to watch the water action. Their special was grilled sea bass and it was excellent. Everything was lovely. . .except for the three kids screaming and running down the aisle. Their parents totally ignored the disruption of all the other diners while they continued chatting with their guest. There was muted applauses when they got up to leave-they pretended not to hear.
After breakfast served by our friendly, English speaking host, we
left for Istanbul. Stopping first in Sarky for a wine adventure, but
again, no tasting, no tour, wine sales only. Very frustrating to my wine
educated husband whose avocation is teaching wine appreciation.
Since I do most of the driving and Mike navigates, I asked for a
break in a tiny village where we could park in front of the cafe. The
travel books recommended the importance of car and luggage observation.
Mike preferred to review the map route and remain in the car. I climbed
the porch steps and asked for a cup of “chai” (the Turkish
all-day-brewed tea). An older man in a worn sports jacket walked up and
asked if he could practice his English. I smiled and nodded. He said his
home was Istanbul but he Summers in this village. Two more men joined
in and then a fourth. They spoke no English. Getting nervous I called
for Mike to join us and the three additional men immediately left. The
first man continued chatting for a bit. We have found that most Turks
were very friendly but the 3 guide books I read did warn that the men
could be overly “friendly” to fair-haired, light-eyed foreign women. As
we drive off I saw 2 women fully arrayed in black standing at the
kitchen door, glaring at me. One was drying her hands and the other
holding (brandishing?) a frying pan.
remainder of our drive to the airport paralleled the Mamara Sea, and it
was beautiful. The international airport, like all others, was very
confusing but we successfully returned our Sun car and they graciously
drove us to our hotel, describing points of interest. They would pick us
up at 10:00 tomorrow for a tour…no additional charge.
I had reserved The Hotel Acropol months before, and since they were
not crowded, our concierge took me on tour of the available rooms. He
offered a discount for #503 mini-suite; located on the top floor with a
balcony that overlooked the city. It had a clear view of Haya Sofya on
our right and the beautiful Blue Mosque on the left. We looked over the
main street of Old Town. We ate an excellent dinner at the nearby Suites
Hotel on the outdoor patio and had an interesting conversation with a
Swedish couple at the next table. Afterward we enjoyed a glass of wine
in our hotel’s top floor restaurant, watching the container ships
cursing through the Maramara Straits. This had been going on for
centuries. What an amazing vista.
Our tour guide Acif picked us up at 10 and we walked the cobbled
stone streets to Haya Sofya. Mobs of people were waiting in line. Using
his “tour guide pass”, Acif swept us through. Haya Sofa was enormous and
overwhelming. The bright tile work, colors and the height and breathe
of the ceiling vaults were incredible. The building corresponded to, but
predated St. Peter’s in Rome, and was the headquarters for the Greek
Orthodox Church for the Eastern end of the Greek Empire.
we went to the Blue Mosque. The Sultan Ahmet donated this whole area to
the neighborhood community in the 15th century: the Mosque, a school,
the hospital and an alms house. There were masses of people waiting to
enter but our guide flashed his pass and we moved to the head of the
line. We bagged our shoes in plastic, doned slippers to walk into the
carpeted building. Acif led us to a corner and showed us the typical
Muslim prayer: face wipe, ears, hair and chest with prayer to give
“comfort” to the prayers. Then he knelt on the carpet saying
incantations while resting his head and arms on the floor. We were not
the only ones who enjoyed watching him.
Then we Visited the Turkish Museum of Art noted for its extensive
array of carpets. The old prayer rugs were threadbare from the knee
indentations over many years, but had worn beautifully. All women were
required to weave a “marriage” carpet before the wedding which could
take up to five years of work. This was considered a retirement
necessity and when sold 40 to 50 years later could bring a good bit of
money. The ones I saw were priced from 50,000 to 200,000 thousand
dollars… and they were exquisite. Strangely enough none of the museum’s
female manikins had faces. Just skin colored material stretched over the
head…and totally blank. After awhile, I could not look at them.
Then our guide escorted us to a carpet store. They served us Chai and
presented a remarkable history of Turkish carpets. There were sample
rugs that had been laid on sand and trampled by goats, sheep or cows
before they were deemed worthy to sell. They were remarkable. There were
samples of “marriage” carpets that could only be worked on when the
weaver was in a “good” mood (Beats not tonight honey I have headache).
Some of the carpets were woven with silk and were exquisite. I asked for
prices but the salesman said “not yet”. At the end of the presentation
he asked me to pick out a rug I really liked. I did. The price was
$13,000. I said I have a headache.
They were very disappointed. They dropped the price. My husband said
we would have to talk about it and would let them know. Although Acif
was disappointed we did not purchase anything, and I understand why, my
husband gave him a very nice tip for the wonderful and informational
tour. Later we walked to the Grand Bazaar. Old buildings connected by
canopies covering alleyways and went on for miles. Shops, small stores
and many individual stands selling anything and everything to the hordes
of people wandering through.
ate dinner across from our hotel at Albura Kathisma Cafe. Excellent
lamb dish. We took the remaining wine from our room to our hotel’s top
floor restaurant and again sat overlooking the sea of Marmarna. Passing
ships, setting sun burnishing the waves. Magnificent.
After breakfast, on our last day in Istanbul, off to see the Topkapi
Palace. Built next to Haya Sophia in 1560, it is an opulent campus with
four courtyards separating the individual palaces. It seemed like there
were thousands of people. Because of the crowds, we skipped the
palace-museums and walked all -the way to the end.
And it was worth it. A spectacular view of the Golden Horn, the sea
of Marmara and the bridge across to Asia. A small breeze blew and the
ships moved eternally through the straits. (see picture at end)
It was closing time so we walked to a cafe just outside the entrance
for coffee. Watching the hoards rush to the busses, I wondered how many
different nationalities we were seeing.
Time to pack up and get ready for our 3:30 AM airport pickup tomorrow
for the 6 AM departure for Amsterdam and the USA. After organizing our
luggage, we walked down the street to Premier Suites again for dinner on
the outside patio. Back at our hotel in our lovely suite, I stood on
the balcony looking at the night lights on Aya Sophia and the Blue
Mosque. The street noises were soft and the human voices musical.
Good night Istanbul! These two Independent Travelers would only come back in our memories.