2Independent-Travelers

Monday 6-24-12

After breakfast served by our friendly, English speaking host, we left for Istanbul. Stopping first in Sarky for a wine adventure, but again, no tasting, no tour, wine sales only. Very frustrating to my wine educated husband whose avocation is teaching wine appreciation.

Since I do most of the driving and Mike navigates, I asked for a break in a tiny village where we could park in front of the cafe. The travel books recommended the importance of car and luggage observation. Mike preferred to review the map route and remain in the car. I climbed the porch steps and asked for a cup of “chai” (the Turkish all-day-brewed tea). An older man in a worn sports jacket walked up and asked if he could practice his English. I smiled and nodded. He said his home was Istanbul but he Summers in this village. Two more men joined in and then a fourth. They spoke no English. Getting nervous I called for Mike to join us and the three additional men immediately left. The first man continued chatting for a bit. We have found that most Turks were very friendly but the 3 guide books I read did warn that the men could be overly “friendly” to fair-haired, light-eyed foreign women. As we drive off I saw 2 women fully arrayed in black standing at the kitchen door, glaring at me. One was drying her hands and the other holding (brandishing?) a frying pan.

The remainder of our drive to the airport paralleled the Mamara Sea, and it was beautiful. The international airport, like all others, was very confusing but we successfully returned our Sun car and they graciously drove us to our hotel, describing points of interest. They would pick us up at 10:00 tomorrow for a tour…no additional charge.

I had reserved The Hotel Acropol months before, and since they were not crowded, our concierge took me on tour of the available rooms. He offered a discount for #503 mini-suite; located on the top floor with a balcony that overlooked the city. It had a clear view of Haya Sofya on our right and the beautiful Blue Mosque on the left. We looked over the main street of Old Town. We ate an excellent dinner at the nearby Suites Hotel on the outdoor patio and had an interesting conversation with a Swedish couple at the next table. Afterward we enjoyed a glass of wine in our hotel’s top floor restaurant, watching the container ships cursing through the Maramara Straits. This had been going on for centuries. What an amazing vista.

Tuesday 6-25-12

Our tour guide Acif picked us up at 10 and we walked the cobbled stone streets to Haya Sofya. Mobs of people were waiting in line. Using his “tour guide pass”, Acif swept us through. Haya Sofa was enormous and overwhelming. The bright tile work, colors and the height and breathe of the ceiling vaults were incredible. The building corresponded to, but predated St. Peter’s in Rome, and was the headquarters for the Greek Orthodox Church for the Eastern end of the Greek Empire.

Next we went to the Blue Mosque. The Sultan Ahmet donated this whole area to the neighborhood community in the 15th century: the Mosque, a school, the hospital and an alms house. There were masses of people waiting to enter but our guide flashed his pass and we moved to the head of the line. We bagged our shoes in plastic, doned slippers to walk into the carpeted building. Acif led us to a corner and showed us the typical Muslim prayer: face wipe, ears, hair and chest with prayer to give “comfort” to the prayers. Then he knelt on the carpet saying incantations while resting his head and arms on the floor. We were not the only ones who enjoyed watching him.

Then we Visited the Turkish Museum of Art noted for its extensive array of carpets. The old prayer rugs were threadbare from the knee indentations over many years, but had worn beautifully. All women were required to weave a “marriage” carpet before the wedding which could take up to five years of work. This was considered a retirement necessity and when sold 40 to 50 years later could bring a good bit of money. The ones I saw were priced from 50,000 to 200,000 thousand dollars… and they were exquisite. Strangely enough none of the museum’s female manikins had faces. Just skin colored material stretched over the head…and totally blank. After awhile, I could not look at them.

Then our guide escorted us to a carpet store. They served us Chai and presented a remarkable history of Turkish carpets. There were sample rugs that had been laid on sand and trampled by goats, sheep or cows before they were deemed worthy to sell. They were remarkable. There were samples of “marriage” carpets that could only be worked on when the weaver was in a “good” mood (Beats not tonight honey I have headache). Some of the carpets were woven with silk and were exquisite. I asked for prices but the salesman said “not yet”. At the end of the presentation he asked me to pick out a rug I really liked. I did. The price was $13,000. I said I have a headache.

They were very disappointed. They dropped the price. My husband said we would have to talk about it and would let them know. Although Acif was disappointed we did not purchase anything, and I understand why, my husband gave him a very nice tip for the wonderful and informational tour. Later we walked to the Grand Bazaar. Old buildings connected by canopies covering alleyways and went on for miles. Shops, small stores and many individual stands selling anything and everything to the hordes of people wandering through.

We ate dinner across from our hotel at Albura Kathisma Cafe. Excellent lamb dish. We took the remaining wine from our room to our hotel’s top floor restaurant and again sat overlooking the sea of Marmarna. Passing ships, setting sun burnishing the waves. Magnificent.

Wednesday 6-26-12

After breakfast, on our last day in Istanbul, off to see the Topkapi Palace. Built next to Haya Sophia in 1560, it is an opulent campus with four courtyards separating the individual palaces. It seemed like there were thousands of people. Because of the crowds, we skipped the palace-museums and walked all      -the way to the end.

And it was worth it. A spectacular view of the Golden Horn, the sea of Marmara and the bridge across to Asia. A small breeze blew and the ships moved eternally through the straits. (see picture at end)

It was closing time so we walked to a cafe just outside the entrance for coffee. Watching the hoards rush to the busses, I wondered how many different nationalities we were seeing.

Time to pack up and get ready for our 3:30 AM airport pickup tomorrow for the 6 AM departure for Amsterdam and the USA. After organizing our luggage, we walked down the street to Premier Suites again for dinner on the outside patio. Back at our hotel in our lovely suite, I stood on the balcony looking at the night lights on Aya Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The street noises were soft and the human voices musical.

Good night Istanbul! These two Independent Travelers would only come back in our memories.

Friday 6-21-12

Essentially wending our way back to Istanbul, we headed to Assos and the Caravansy Hotel by the sea. Our concierge graciously booked 2 days at this wonderful rustic resort that looked over the bay and up a hill to a castle. We had a good view of the acropolis in Pergamon as we passed, but we didn’t stop. The ride down the hills to Assos was long and hazardous but we made it and checked into our third floor room-with-balcony.

Only eight rooms had a view-with-balcony, which had a heavy overhang to keep out the weather and resembled a small watch-tower.

Walking the waterfront and the tiny village only took 30 minutes. Off to the. Pool…freezing.. .ha! The 7:30 seating for dinner offered minimal choices: fish or chicken. The food was good and the service excellent. Then the rains came down and we got to watch passing ships from our watch-tower.

Saturday 6-22-12

Breakfast overlooking the bay, with some clouds and choppy waves. We tried walking up the hill to the village above but only got as far as the crumbling but majestic amphitheater when it started to drizzle. The rain actually enhanced the appearance of this ancient structure but not the quality of the dirt road returning to the hotel. We had to step off the road when cars passed. The second time this happened we heard some noise from a fruit orchard and there was a herd of goats, chewing quietly, staring at us. I whispered and they cocked their heads, moving closer, paralleling us along the fence fearlessly. Being unused to goats on the other side of a shabby fence, we walked quietly until the road shifted away. Then, bravely, we looked back and missed their curiosity. Watching them chew made me hungry. Nearing our hotel, we stopped at Gazleme, a small restaurant with grape vines covering the overhead lattice work that kept us dry. Lovely lamb stew. Our hotel was filled with Turks. The only English spoken was by one receptionist. Our Turkish was meager but people were very hospitable.

Sunday 6-23-12

Taking a ferry boat to “wine island” today. The approaching pier of this old fortress, “Bozcaada Castle” loomed over us. The castle was built originally in the 8th century on Roman ruins and classic Roman design. It towered over the bay guarding the Dardinelles.

After lunch we found the winery but alas, no tasting, only selling. Then we ferried back to Asia and drove to Canakkale, got another ferry to Europe and drove to Gelibolu (The Greek Gallipolis is better remembered as the site of a major battle in the 1st World War).

While crossing the Dardenelles, I noticed the many crumbling fortresses lining this most strategic body of water. More than 5 countries used the Straits to get to the Mediterranean, a vitally important access to commerce. From the looks of the many fortresses, it was not easy. We found Hotel Owa in the non-tourist town of Gelibolu and got a lovely large room. Our balcony overlooked the downtown and a very busy harbor. Our concierge recommended Ilham Restaurant for fresh seafood. We ate on the outside deck to watch the water action. Their special was grilled sea bass and it was excellent. Everything was lovely. . .except for the three kids screaming and running down the aisle. Their parents totally ignored the disruption of all the other diners while they continued chatting with their guest. There was muted applauses when they got up to leave-they pretended not to hear.

Tuesday 5-18-12

And the rains were coming…….

Weather predictions were poor for the next 2 days: time to move on. Penny made reservations for us at the Hal-Tur Hotel in Pamukkale. We had a lovely room facing the salt terraces. What with rain and being mid-week, the hotel was not crowded. We also had a bathtub, and used it! We appreciated the excellent food, wine and fireplace in their restaurant.

Wednesday 5-19-12

The terraces were wet with drizzle so we decided to bypass a walk. Our concierge reserved for us 2 days at Hotel Kalshan in Selcuk. And we were off for Aphrodite or Aphrodisias as she is called here. This was one of the earliest occupied sites in Anatolia. The Assyrian goddess of love and war, Min, became syncretized with the Semitic Ishtar, whose attributes were eventually assumed by the Hellenic Aphrodite. The Greeks and the Romans did a wonderful job with most of the structures that we see today. We had to leave our car in a General Park and take trams to and fro.  We were packed on with a 7th grade field trip. The kids giggled at us, said “hello” and “from?” and took Mike’s picture. He has white hair and a mustache and his hat fascinated them. Delightful.

The Aphrodite site was exquisite. We walked up a hill to the top of the amphitheater; looked over the Agora, remains of the baths and further away to other structures and the Temple to Aphrodite. Back to Selculk. Stopped for lunch at a wonderful French restaurant. . . after first trying a nearby cafe that was “men only” (local Turks).

The next two nights were at the Hotel Kalsham in Selcuk. A bit shabby but most of the rooms opened out to a lovely courtyard with a pool. . .ice cold. We still had time to see nearby Ephesus. The concierge suggested we park in the lower lot, take a cab to the top and walk the sites down to the bottom. Excellent! As we started our tour, all the busses lined up to take their passengers back to the ships. No crowds and the temperature cooling. Of all the wonderful structures, I was most impressed by the communal toilets. There were about 20 in a semi-circle, just holes in a bench, but with room on either side for coffee or a newspaper. Marvelous engineering, the hillside stream ran underneath and washed the effluent out to the bay. Standing in front of the magnificent library, one could easily see how much the shore had receded  since the 1st century. Our last stop before the parking lot was the amphitheater. Several musicians were playing. The only thing missing was a glass of wine.

Thursday 5-20-12

After breakfast we are off on a day-trip to Priene. This site was resettled during the Hellenistic period around the 3rd century B.C. Settled first by Athenians (11th century B.C.) followed by Romans then Byzantine. The city enjoyed little patronage from the emperors, with the result that represents the best preserved Hellenistic townscape in Ionia without any of the usual later additions. A long walk—about but not as heavily toured as Ephesus.

Back to our hotel for lunch where we found many “boat people” eating in our restaurant. Later we walked the New Town but found the Old Town much more interesting. I looked for a beauty shop, passing over 20 barber shops, and found only one. It only took 25 minutes for a shampoo and comb-out because 3 women worked on me. (Only one other customer who spoke some English and helped to interpret.) The beauticians wanted to give me the “big bush look” but I used their small brushes and dryer to show what I wanted. They did it and the result was wonderful. I left a big tip because they listened to me.

We returned to Old Town and Old House restaurant, eating in their courtyard. Our waiter, a Kurd, spoke fluent English, and told us how his father’s family all worked hard to develop this restaurant and make it a success. He said most of the Turkish wives worked while many of their husbands sat in cafes drinking coffee. He felt to be successful the family must work together. Our meal was excellent.

Saturday 5-15-12

While we ate breakfast, Mr. Muharren, our Landlord, reserved 2 nights for us at The Beach House in Side. I learned early on that using the concierge to make future reservations was wise. Also, the rooms and service of the next hotel were 3 steps up from the typical because of this personal contact. We could not leave Cappadocia without touring the extraordinary phenomena of one of the underground settlements. Some of them were large enough to have accommodated up to 30,000 people.

We headed to one ‘of the best: Kaymakli. This structure went 5 levels underground but I could only take 3 before claustrophobia arrived. Networks of narrow tunnels with small living caves opening to the side; underground plazas with community kitchens, horse stables, and storage areas. Looking up you could see the light from the ventilation system and hear the water from the deep wells. These people were very short and it hurt to straighten up after 90 minutes of narrow hallways, uneven steps, and darkness.

We had a better understanding of what it took to survive in those ancient and turbulent times.

A leisurely drive to the sea and the Beach House in Side. Our room faced the sea and we sat on our balcony sipping wine and watching the waves. We went next door for dinner, excellent sword-fish, at Soundwaves run by the hotel’s owner’s son and his wife. With live Turkish music, a couple of waiters pulled Mike into the dancing. (Men only of course.) A transplanted Aussie and her Turkish husband own the Beach House, the first hotel in Side in 1960. Our room (205) was typically small with a hard bed and pillow. The bathroom shower floor had no demarcation between the shower stall and the rest of the bath. But there were plenty of towels!

Sunday 5-16-12

Breakfast in the lovely bar that opened to the outside terrace and the passersby. We decided to do a “walk about” this ancient town of Side. It was founded in the seventh century BC because of the defensive potential of the rocky cape. The city had its ups and downs until the 1980s and a tourist boom struck. The Old Town was built in and around the classic Roman ruins and most of them were walkable from the hotels. We walked to the monumental gate and into the 20,000 seat theatre. Stunning. It is a freestanding structure supported by massive arched vaults and was not built into a hillside. Next were the Agora, certainly large enough to accommodate the forum and markets, and lastly the Antique Baths. What with the heat and humidity, I headed for a breeze on our balcony and took a book while Mike headed for other sites.

Dinner up the street overlooking the bay. Mike asked for a wine menu and the waiter answered “I am the wine list.” He bought a glass to taste– not good. A second about the same. Then a bottle, discolored and old–but our meal arrived and we drank it. A breeze came up and eliminated the humidity.

Monday 5-17-12

Weather comfortable today so off to the magnificent remains of Perge. The grandeur of the defense wall, stadium, baths and the theatre were overwhelming. The original inhabitants were quick studies on how to survive an attack of marauders. They welcomed the Romans into their city, they believed the Romans would help defend against the Hellenistic tribes and they did–and stayed.

When arriving back at Side, we discovered the police had blockaded the road to the sea side community and motioned us into a public parking area. We simply sat there blocking the road and repeating the name of our hotel. The two police, one on each side of the car, yelled and gestured to the public lot. I smiled, said “no” and repeated, “Hotel Beach House”. This continued until a car pulled up behind us. The barriers were dropped and we drove though. Later our hotel owner told us that the city wanted to preserve the beach town for “pedestrians” only, for those who eat and shop. So the city enforced the public lot at the entrance and disallowed the hotel residents to drive in and out with their luggage. Not a wise decision. . .and it didn’t work with us.

That night we ate at Soundwaves again, eating outside under the overhang to watch the storm moving into the bay. By morning the beach was littered with boats, fish and the detritus of a storm. But the sun came out.

Thursday 5-13-10

After breakfast, disinclined to climb to the caves, I bought postcards. And we left for Hattusa. Enclosed by six-kilometer-long walls, this city was, by the standards of the time, an immense site. Originally settled by the Hatti in 2500 BC the Hittites conquered it in 1375 B.C. and the Hittite city was unearthed by archeologists in the first half of the nineteenth century. The fortress encircled the mountain top, warding off attacking multi—cultures for over 1000 years. Fascinating.

Now they were being attacked by loaded tourist buses. We split as 3 of them drove up the dirt road spewing exhaust. A few miles and 1500 feet lower down, we spotted a large crevice-like opening hidden at the bottom of two mountains. Several cars were parked with people wandering around…so we followed.

As we walked through the narrow opening, marvelous rock sculptures grew out of rock as high as 100 feet. We were later to read that Yazihkaya (Turkish for inscribed rock) was the entrance to the temple now defunk. There were around 100 figures, mostly gods from the vast array of Hittite deities. On to Avanos and finding lodging. Drove through the city and saw only one hotel that was unacceptable.

In the process of turning around to redo main street we found a sign, “Sofa, Hotel” that appealed to me. I entered the office and the owner, Mr. Muharren (who, we discovered later a very fine pen and ink draftsman), spoke English.

The owner was a pen and ink draftsman and since he had no, “before’ or “after” pictures he gave me his drawings.

He led me to an open courtyard and pointed to all the “rooms” available. Over the years he had acquired 24 rambling small, single houses and loosely connected them with stairs. Many units fronted the courtyard that covered and centered the compound. The first two units he showed me I refused, but the 3rd was charming, albeit 4 floors up.  The first staircase was up, the second down and through a cave and two more sets going up. The risers were 13 to 14 inches deep with scalloped stones and no railings. Very difficult for Mike recuperating from a fractured hip 8 months earlier. BUT the room was lovely with a modern bathroom and a balcony overlooking the river and the “fairyland” of Cappadocia. Excellent. (Except for the stairs.)

Dinner at 8 in the open courtyard. Two entrees offered: grilled chicken or kofte. An enormous salad bar in a narrow room at the head of the courtyard had unbelievable choices. No English spoken. Mike lifted his wine glass, and using the most important Turkish he had learned, said “Kirmizi sarap please”. (Red Wine) The waiter grinned.

Friday 10-14-10

After breakfast we headed for Goreme and the outdoor World Heritage Site. It seemed like we climbed up and down mountains touring the caves: the home sites, church sites, business sites and a monastery. The Greek Orthodox settled here in the 3/4th century AD following religious persecution by the Romans. The Greeks were firmly entrenched for 200 years and the Roman pursuit ended. Fascinating to see wall paintings, sculptures and furniture carved out of the walls. Our hotel owner warned us about the tour bus arrival at noon. They did and we had to jump out of their way. We then drove through Zelve (nicknamed “penis valley” and aptly so. Mike loved them).

We stopped frequently to view the huge, natural stone monuments. Heading back to our hotel, we stopped for lunch at a cafe over—looking the river that we could see from our room. Then Mike went to wine tour and taste at Turasan Winery which he had reserved by e-mail 2 months earlier. Edward was their French wine-maker and spoke English. I sat on our lovely balcony alternating between reading and the beautiful views. Later we walked around the area by our hotel and spotted a small 2nd floor restaurant overlooking the river. Very local but most hospitable. The major cooking area was right behind our table and they were delighted by our fascination with their preparation: swinging pots on an iron rod, adjusting the flame stirring and seasoning. The fresh trout was superb and we tipped well.

Tuesday 5-11-12

The alarm rang at 6AM for the 7 o’clock Air France pickup for our 9 AM departure. Our short hops were in coach, but our Delta cards earned priority check-in for the 3 hour flight to Istanbul. Mike had rented a Suncar and we hit the highway quickly. The traffic was horrendous. For the next two hours bumper to bumper and side by side. This was worse than Madrid, Paris and New York put together. I drive, Mike navigates. After the traffic lessened, the road deteriorated and signage disappeared. We discovered that many highways in Turkey were being expanded or restructured. Frequent single lanes were the medium. We arrived at our reserved Cinci Han Hotel in Safranbolu at 11:00 PM. (See picture) Driving from the Istanbul airport through Asia to Safranbolu was about 230 miles but the highway back-up cost us many hours.

Built in 1645 on the historical Silk Road from China to Turkey. Anatolia.

In spite of the delay, the reception was welcoming and gracious, supplying wine, cheese and fruit even at this late hour. We sat in the open-air center courtyard of this restored 1674 Caravan Inn. This authentic structure had rough stone walls and a canvas cover over the courtyard. Travelers housed their animals for the night in the center and the drivers slept in very small rooms built into the walls and facing the courtyards.

Our room was small with one window and a wooden built-in bath in the adjoining addressing room that rocked when walked on… but it was unique. We explored the surrounding Ottoman village after an excellent breakfast. All the original structures were filled with small stores and cafes. Many had hand-crafted items for sale and very friendly owners.

Wednesday 5-12-12

Getting into Ancient Turkey…….

Around 11 AM we left for Amaysa and the Painted Tombs. Again the roads were teeming with expansion and reconstruction. For miles we drove on the finished single lane looking at brand new and unopened gas stations, restaurants and cafes. After driving part way around Amaysa, looking for highway or street signs (none), we ended on top of a hill looking at Kale (Castle). It was important to tour this structure built in 3000 B.C. Very difficult walking the rough pebbled terrain up and around this defensive fortress sheltering the castle.
Rewarded at the top by sighting the painted caves on the down side of the hill opposite. Again, with no signage, we fumbled our way down to view the tombs excavated above the river.

All the lovely old hotels by the river were full. We found an interesting, old Hotel Melis on a back street with parking in a back alley… wherever you could find it. Our room was on the 2nd floor (no elevator) but friendly and sufficient. The bar-cafe-breakfast room with a good view) was on the 5th floor. . .but we would climb that in the morning.

We walked to dinner at a riverside restaurant with a view of the caves. While sipping wine we watched the lights shine from these strange structures that were supposedly built and painted inside with battle scenes from 3000 BC.

Journal of Two Independent Travelers: Turkey              May, 2012

             In the beginning….. there was research and planning…..

We argued. Mike wanted to see Turkey and I wanted to revisit Spain and France. Three different travel guides discussed the attitude of the male Turk toward the female which add up to one phrase: control and aversion. I was not desirous of spending three weeks in such a culture. Additionally one book stated that many young men were encouraged with the attitude that foreign, fair haired, blue eyed women (of any age) are fair game. Not appealing. Finally my husband asked what it would take to get me to Turkey. Three days in Paris I answered. “Done” he said. (I should have said a week!)

May 5-7-12

The planning had taken time and effort. We needed reservations in Paris for three days; the first night in Turkey plus the last three nights in Istanbul and a rental car. All the specific hotels stays I arranged via the computer, and they were good. Mike perused maps of Turkey until he devised an excellent plan. Next was a calendar of the trip. He built in 3 extra days of the three weeks so we could expand some stays if we chose. For two 70 year olds, it took a bit of time.

For years I accumulated miles with Delta. Six months before, I established multiple possible dates for departure and return and got my choices for the international flights. The upgrade to business/ first class with high end coach fares, backed up with 50,000 miles each, made departure and return very comfortable. Delta’s “elite” status offers pampering from start to finish. You leave and return content, refreshed, hungover and old bones uncramped.

After leaving our dogs at the kennel, the two Independent Travelers set off. We left San Luis Obispo driving leisurely up the Coast. Gonzales was our lunch destination at the Wind Mill- a lovely old bank converted into a restaurant with wine cellar in the original vault.

Driving CA 1 up the coast, we stopped for coffee and wine at Half Moon Bay. One hour later we arrived at our favorite San Francisco B.W. El Rancho Inn. After a walk around the grounds, we headed to dinner in the bar at 7 PM. It was noisy with ANXIOUS TRAVELLERS yet-to-go and those who had just returned. Fun.

Out on the patio for coffee and a cigarette after dinner. We woke-up at 3 AM for the 4 AM airport shuttle with departure at 6 AM.

Our elite status ensures a smooth check in at San Francisco Airport. Then to the Delta Executive lounge at 4:40 and a sign on the door said “Open at 5”. We waited. I was the first person at the bar for a glass of stabilizing wine. Then boarding security. It was crowded and slow moving. Suddenly a first class line opened and we slipped right through.